Wednesday, 27
June. Today would be devoted entirely
to exploring Sorrento. After breakfast at the
hotel, we parked the car just off Piazza Tasso
(1866), the central square. In the process, we
noticed a deep gorge below a bridge on Via
Fuorimura where we parked. Far below were the
ruins of an old stone mill. We learned that this
was the Vallone dei Mulini (Valley of Mills),
site of various mills over many centuries. The
mill was located at ground level in the original
town. It was blocked off when Piazza Tasso was
constructed. It was amazing how high the area
had grown from its original level.
We followed Corso Italia from Piazza Tasso to
the Cathedral, then thoroughly explored the
narrow streets north all the way Piazza Vittorio
and We visited the San Francesco Monastery and
its charming cloister. the high cliffs
overlooking the sea. Most of the large,
expensive hotels were located along these
cliffs. We also walked the steep road down the
Marina Grande. Finally, having had enough of
sightseeing, we switched to shopping mode.
We knew Sorrento was famous for its inlaid wood
(intarsia) and wanted to buy some not
only for ourselves but as gifts. We had passed
many intarsia shops on our walk and now picked
out a large shop with a wide selection. The
proprietor was very friendly. We were his only
customers, and he offered to show us how he
produced his wares.
He had clamped about a dozen sheets of wood
veneer very tightly together. Each sheet was of
a different kind of wood and therefore of a
different color. On the top of the stack was a
piece of paper with an intricate pattern traced
on it in pencil. He took a fine saw and cut
along the pattern, cutting all 12 of the sheets
at once. When he finished cutting, every sheet
of veneer had been cut into the same identical
pieces. After he separated the sheets, he could
reassemble those pieces in different
combinations of colors. It was fascinating!
When we began selecting items to buy, there were
no shopping carts, so we carried the purchases
to the front counter. We would ask for a
discount on those items, and get it, before
setting off to find more. The biggest and most
expensive item we selected was a wheeled tea
cart with two intarsia shelves. We bargained
long and hard before deciding to buy it. When we
finally had everything we wanted, the proprietor
tallied up all the individual prices we had
negotiated. At that point Darrell asked him to
round the total down a couple thousand Lire
because we had bought so much. Reluctantly, he
agreed, but he made it clear that was it. No
more discounts! (Our notes indicate that the
total price for all our intarsia purchases was
$30. Sounds great, right? But our income at the
time was only about $400 a month.)
We also had dinner at one of the quaint
restaurants on a narrow street. Back at our
hotel, we packed for our morning departure.
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