14-Istanbul-Topkapi

Topkapi Palace seen from Galata Bridge

Friday, 14 April. This was our last full day in Istanbul, and we had decided to spend most of it at the Topkapi Palace, also in the Sultanahmet district. A dolmus took us within a couple blocks of the entrance. As we started walking toward it, a young man fell in with us, speaking limited English. Kemal said he was a professional guide and offered to take us through Topkapi for a very reasonable price. Although we were a little suspicious, we finally agreed.

A few of the 336 columns

Brick ceiling above column

Almost immediately, he diverted us toward a dilapidated doorway leading to a long flight of stone steps. We really couldn’t understand what he wanted us to see, but he kept saying “water.” Reluctantly, we followed him down about 50 steps, lighted by only an occasional bare bulb. Finally at the bottom, we could make out hundreds of tall (30 feet) marble columns standing in a couple feet of water and supporting a vaulted brick roof. We found out later (not from Kemal) that this was the Yerebatan Cistern, originally built by Constantine the Great and enlarged by Justinian in the 6th century. The cistern had been largely neglected after the fall of the Byzantine Empire in 1453, and was now just a muddy (but still impressive) ruin.

(The cistern was cleaned up, renovated, and illuminated in 1987 and has since become a major tourist attraction. When we saw it, though, it was not open to the public. We got in only because Kemal knew the lock on the old door was broken. The cistern measures 215 by 430 feet. It has 336 columns, 12 rows with 28 columns each.)

Gate of Salutation into Topkapi Palace

Seeing this impressive cistern that was not even mentioned in our guide book gave us new confidence in Kemal. That was quickly dispelled, though, when we reached to entrance gate to Topkapi. Although we really couldn’t understand exactly what was said, it was apparent that Kemal had identified himself as our guide and wanted free or discounted admission to the Palace. The ticket seller not only refused him, but loudly scolded him, apparently for trying to pass himself off as a guide. Although it was obvious to us that Kemal had never before tried to enter Topkapi as a guide, we finally paid for his ticket as well as our own.

It soon became apparent that Kemal was not at all familiar with the sights of Topkapi. Most of the time we couldn’t understand him, and when we did, his explanations were invariably contradicted by our guide book. We finally ignored him and he just followed us around.

Model of Topkapi Palace

Construction of what is now known as Topkapi Palace began soon after Sultan Mehmet II (the Conqueror) captured Istanbul in 1453. He had the first buildings constructed on the present site. For the next four centuries, Topkapi Palace was the principal residence of all the Ottoman sultans. During this time, the palace complex underwent constant evolution. Buildings disappeared; buildings were added. Topkapi was abandoned in favor of a new palace on the Bosphorus in 1856 and fell into disrepair. After the establishment of the Turkish Republic in 1923, Topkapi was renovated and turned into a museum.

As we came through the gate, we were in a large park-like courtyard. (It's called the “Second Court.” The large public park outside the gate is the "First Court" or Court of the Janissaries.) The harem, which was supposed to be the most interesting part, was to our left front, and we decided to save that for last. So we started down the right side. We quickly browsed the extensive kitchens which now housed displays of china and silver, not really what we'd come to Topkapi to see. We passed through the Gate of Felicity and into the Third Court, the area where the sultans had lived. Just inside was a small building (the Throne Room) where the sultans received ambassadors and dignitaries.

Gate of Felicity

Chimneys on the kitchens

The Throne Room

Jeweled "Topkapi dagger" in the Treasury

Off to the right was the Imperial Wardrobe, with a collection of the richly decorated robes (kaftans) and baggy pants worn by the various sultans. Kemal directed us to the Treasury (housed in the Palace's oldest building), where an 86 carat diamond, many other jewels and jeweled objects, candlesticks, and ceremonial thrones were displayed. We even saw the jeweled dagger (1746) that was the target of the thieves in the 1964 movie "Topkapi".

We took a quick look into the Fourth Court. There were some elaborate buildings that Kemal insisted were not open to the public. He then led us to the Chamber of the Holy Relics that he said housed Mohammed’s cloak, hair, and other relics. We didn't want to offend Kemal, but we really weren't particularly interested in Islamic relics. We also were eager to get to the Harem. Before we had to make a final decision, Kemal discovered that the Chamber wasn’t open anyway.

Finally it was time to visit the Harem. The Harem contained more than 300 rooms, but also many courtyards, gardens, staircases, and passageways. In addition to the chambers for the women, there were quarters for the sultans, the many princes, their foreign teachers, and the Black Eunuchs who guarded the women.

Entrance to the Harem

Stained glass window

Imperial Hall (Salon)

Relatively few of the rooms were open to the public, maybe 20 or 30. (We didn’t count and it was sometimes hard to tell where one room ended and another began.) There were guards in every room, but no guides to explain anything. I tried to follow in our guide book, and Kemal tried to explain something every once in a while. (His explanations invariable were inconsistent with the guide book.) Much of the time we had no idea what we were looking at. It really didn’t matter, though, because we were just enjoying the beauty of the rooms. It may mean, though, that some of our slides are mislabeled or out of order.

Windows in Sultan's bedroom

Library of Ahmet III (1705)

Domed ceiling in Sultan's bedroom

Terrace leading to Circumcision Room

Courtyard of the Favorites

Imperial Council Chamber

We left the Harem and walked back through the Second Court, passing perhaps the most ornately decorated building we had seen, the Imperial Council Chamber. By this time we were “toured out” and just couldn’t absorb any more. It was also after 14:00, and we hadn’t had any lunch.

First, though, we had to get rid of Kemal. In spite of his obvious lack of qualifications as a guide, we paid him what we had agreed, but let him know we weren’t pleased with his services. When we got to a commercial area, we went into the first restaurant we found. We both ordered the shrimp special, and we each got one shrimp. However, it was at least five inches long and, served butterflied, almost filled a small plate. It was more than enough.

We found the dolmus to Taksim Square and went back to our hotel to rest and begin packing for tomorrow’s departure. We had dinner at the hotel.

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