Prague

Friday, 24 July: At 9:00 a.m. the tour group took the subway to the Mustek stop and walked a short way to an economics center to hear a lecture on recent history and economic changes in the Czech Republic. Our lecturer observed that perhaps the famous 1989 "Velvet Revolution" that ended communism in Czechoslovakia was "too much velvet and not enough revolution," and explained that they still had a long way to go to convert to a true market economy.

After his lecture, the economist became our guide and took us for a walk in New Town (established in the 14th century). He showed us Wenceslaw Square, actually a wide boulevard several blocks long. At one end was the National Museum, looking like a huge palace. We walked into Old Town and stopped at the Theater of Estates where Mozart's Don Giovanni premiered in 1787. Just across the street was the Charles University (1348). Our group continued on to the Old Town Hall Tower where we joined the throngs and watched the clock strike noon. 

Then we walked to the east end of the Charles Bridge. The bridge, of course, is named in honor of Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV. There was an excellent view of Castle Hill across the river. At this point the guide left us and the tour group broke up. We walked part way across the Charles Bridge. On the railings of the bridge are about 30 large statues of various saints, many by famous sculptors. The bridge itself is crowded with vendors stalls and strolling tourists. 

Jane near Charles Bridge

Charles Bridge tower (east)

Charles Bridge & Castle Hill

We turned back and returned to Old Town where we had lunch in a small cafe and looked in the shops. We finally bought a cut-out ceramic vase (made in a leading ceramics center) and a small pitcher. We looked around in Erpet, an exclusive store featuring the finest crystal and glass. They had some marvelous things, but we decided we really didn't want to accumulate more. We also browsed the stalls in the square before catching the subway back to the hotel.

It was only 3:30, so I decided to walk over to Castle Hill while Jane spent some time in the hotel's hot tub. I walked through the castle to see what we'd missed on the walking tour, then headed for the Loreto. I got there at 4:40 only to discover that it closed at 4:30. Then I walked down the hill to the west end of Charles Bridge. This area seemed even more crowded with tourists than the east end had been. Both railings of the bridge were lined solid, mostly with artists selling their pictures or vendors selling jewelry. I climbed to the top of the tower for a great view. I then caught the subway and got back to the hotel at 5:30.

Looking east on Charles Bridge

Looking west on Charles Bridge

The yee-up girl

Pouring wine

At 7:00 p.m. the bus took us to the Holiday Inn, housed in a former Russian building complete with a star on top. A separate wine tasting restaurant on the grounds had been reserved for our group's optional "Czech Dinner and Folk Music" tour. The food was excellent. We started with a herb aperitif that tasted somewhat like Campari. They served pork roast, spaetzle, sauerkraut, scalloped potatoes rich with cream, and "unlimited" wine poured in a long arc through the air from a glass flask with a tube controlled only by the waiter's finger. Dessert was a crepe with apples and chocolate sauce. We were entertained by Czech musicians and dancers. Among the instruments was one looking much like a piano without a keyboard, played by striking the wires with wooden mallets.

One of the female dancers frequently emitted a unique high-pitched "yee-UP" sound that we found very amusing. Our whole group sang and many danced the mazurka (after a lesson by the professionals), polka, waltz, and other dances. Unfortunately, Jane's recuperating shoulder prevented her from dancing the mazurka which requires the woman to raise her arm at one point. The mazurka originated in Poland while the polka was a native Czech dance. Everyone seemed to have a great time. We finally got back to our hotel just before 10:00 p.m.