Monday, October 28. The four of us were going to see the Tofuku-ji Zen temple today. The weather was cool and windy, but sunny in the morning. We took the train to Kyoto where we had lunch at a curry restaurant in the station. Then we caught the train to Tofuku-ji, arriving about 12:30. We walked to the temple through an area of century-old houses and shops.

The temple gate and some of the buildings date from the 14th century. A small valley runs through the grounds and is spanned by three bridges. The temple is famous for its red maple leaves in the fall, but they had barely started to turn at this time. We enjoyed strolling the grounds and the beautiful gardens. But by now the sky had clouded over and the wind was really cold.

Us on 1st bridge

Entering Tofuku-ji

Jane & garden

Kaisando & garden

14th Century gate

The train got us back to Kyoto about 2:30. We stopped for a break in the coffee shop of one of the department stores at the station, did a little shopping, and were back in Sakamoto by 4:45. At 5:00 we walked to a Chinese restaurant near the station for dinner. We were back at Tom's at 6:15.

Tuesday, 29 October. Today Jane and I were going to explore some of the old section of Sakamoto. We walked to the train station where we caught a taxi up the hill to a house and garden with the odd name Former Chikurin-in (bamboo forest). Tom rode there on his bicycle and joined us a few minutes later.

This complex had once been the residence of a wealthy merchant, and later a retirement home for Buddhist priests. There were a few exhibits in the house, and the main room had a long glass wall on the side facing on the garden, providing an impressive view. But the hillside garden, with its narrow, winding paths, was definitely the principal attraction. Besides the lovely trees and shrubs, it featured a small stream and waterfall, stone lanterns, and two tea houses.

"Former Chikurin-in" garden

Lantern & raker

Tiny waterfall

Tea house

Afterward, Tom stayed with us for a short time as we walked down the hill through an old neighborhood, but then he had to leave. Jane and I came across a narrow lane that looked interesting, and we took it back up the hill. First we saw a workshop with racks of old bamboo; then there were small but charming old houses. Then, to our surprise, there was a sizeable bamboo forest on one side of the lane. Undoubtedly it had once extended through the area of the Former Chikurin-in. (It was less than a block away.)

Leaving the lane, we walked back to the main street and entered the walled courtyard of the Shogen-ji Temple. No one else was there so, after exploring the grounds, we decided to sit for a while on the outdoor benches and eat the lunch Kyoko had so thoughtfully packed for us.

Exceptionally large house

Crossing the main street, we found another lane going up the hill. This one was wider, paved with cut stones, and flanked on both sides by thick stone walls. The houses here were larger and more modern. We eventually came to the Shigain-Monzeki temple and explored the grounds. It was very large, though not particularly interesting.

We followed small side-streets down the hill through residential neighborhoods, past numerous small shrines and temples. We even passed Sakamoto's other railroad station (on a different line than the Hieizan-Sakamoto station we used). We got back to Tom's about 2:15 and started packing for tomorrow's departure. As a special treat, Tom & Kyoko made beef sukiyaki for dinner.