Thursday, 7 May (p.m.). It was about a 40 minute drive to Castro Urdiales. Castro Urdiales is a small (pop. 30,000) fishing port on the coast of the Bay of Biscayne northeast of Bilbao. It is not in Basque Country but in the neighboring province of Cantabria. By the time our guide led us through the narrow streets to the waterfront it was shortly after noon.

There were several small cafes in a row by the Meson Marineros. We were told we could use their toilets, but our guide encouraged us to buy something there, too. Jane and I each had a different kind of pintxo (peencho), both with jambon on a small roll. Then, since we still had some free time, we roamed around the waterfront. There were men on the pier untangling and folding their nets, and a statue of women doing much the same.

We had been so occupied with the marina and the fishing scene that we'd failed to notice the towns major monuments, so high above us that they were obscured by the steep cliffs. Finally looking up, we discovered a medieval cathedral and a castle with a lighthouse on a high rock jutting into the sea.

St. Ann Chapel (on breakwater)

Castle & Roman bridge

Street below the church

 By then it was time to join the group. Our guide led us up to the cathedral and castle for a closer look and an explanation of their history. The church was Santa Maria de L'Ascension (13th century), an elaborate Gothic church for what was then a small fishing village. Its graceful flying buttresses are partly concealed by a series of chapels built around the church's exterior. Despite its obvious past elegance, though, the church now appears in pretty sad shape. The castle-lighthouse (also 13th century) has not fared much better. While the it seems to be in good condition for its age, someone had the "brilliant" idea of adding an ugly external modern elevator and platform to make it more convenient for tourists.

St. Mary of the Assumption

13th century castle with modern elevator

The breakwater seen from the Roman bridge

St. Ann's Chapel & castle