7-Bonn

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Front view of Augustusburg Palace

Friday, 7 August. It was another warm sunny day as we woke up in Bonn. Jane was still weak but decided she didn't want to use a wheelchair for our optional tour to the Augustusburg Palace, half an hour away. Built by the Archbishop/Elector of Cologne (early 18th century), the Palace more recently was used for state guests while Bonn was the capitol of West Germany. The Palace was disappointing for us, perhaps because we have seen so many palaces, many far more grand and opulent.

The rooms were warm and stuffy, and Jane began to weaken. She tried to stay near open windows for air. She felt much better once we went out into the gardens. They were beautiful, but we couldn't bear the hot sun. Luckily, we found an empty bench in the shade of the trees lining the garden and sat there until it was time to walk to nearby Bruehl.

A typical room, with an ornate heater

Us on rear patio overlooking the garden

Rear of the Palace seen from the garden

Interior of Augustusberg Palace Chapel

Main pedestrian street of Bruehl

Bruehl was charming. We strolled up and down the long pedestrian street soaking up the atmosphere. We bought some fresh red raspberries from a vendor. (He purposely tried giving me change for E 10 when I'd given him E 20, but he backed off immediately when I challenged him in German.) We sat in the shade of the trees for a while, then stopped to see the palace chapel on our way back to the bus.

We were back at the ship by 12:30, had lunch at 1:00, and went on a walking tour of Bonn at 2:45. Our ship was moored right in front of Opera House, so it was a short walk into the old city center. We walked along the river to the Bonn University grounds, then inland to the Muensterplatz. There we saw St. Steven's Basilica (11th century). Bonn also grew out of a Roman settlement, and the church was built on the site of a Roman temple. A large bronze statue of Beethoven stands in one corner of the square, in front of an old Post Office. Beethoven (1770-1827) was born in Bonn. A couple of blocks over we entered the Marktplatz, dominated by the ornate rococo Old City Hall (1738).

St. Steven's Basilica

Beethoven in front of the old Post Office

Old City Hall in Marktplatz

At this point our Tour Director turned us loose. Jane and I walked a short way to the house where Beethoven was born. He lived here until, at age 21, he went to Vienna to study under Haydn. The house was large, but not luxurious, with a small garden.

Jane entering Beethoven's house

Beethoven's bust in the garden

^ Beethoven's own organ

< The house has two wings

Instead of going back through the Muensterplatz as the Tour Director had recommended, we took a "short cut" back to the ship and nearly got lost. Luckily we stumbled onto a small walking path that led right to the ship. We were on board before 5:00. Jane was very tired, but had a nice rest before dinner at 7:00. I persuaded her to eat in the dining room because getting out among other people usually lifts her spirits. It certainly worked this time; she was the last one to leave the dining room.

Remains of the Ludendorff Bridge

Apollinaris Church & Monastery

The ship was to pass the famous bridge at Remagen around 9:00, so we went up on deck to see it. Actually, there is no bridge there anymore. The Allies captured the Ludendorff Bridge at Remagen on 17 March 1945. It was the last remaining bridge over the Rhine, but it collapsed ten days later. In the meantime, though, the Allies poured troops and supplies across, establishing a solid bridgehead.

We got on deck just in time to see the Apollinaris church, with its graceful towers. Dating back to the 13th century, but most recently rebuilt in 1853, it's a far more beautiful site than the bridge ever was, but doesn't get near the attention from tourists. Ten minutes later we were at the bridge, or at least its remnants. Then we called it a night.

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