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VALENCIA

Tuesday, 10 May. We were up at 7:45 and had breakfast in our room. Because of the delay over the lifeboat recertification, the ship docked in Valencia at 12:45 instead of at 10:00 as originally scheduled. As a result, the 10:15 excursion we'd booked was moved back to 2:30. That gave us a leisurely morning, but not enough time to go into the city either before or after the excursion. 



Castle near Sagunto

The excursion included a drive to the Vall d'Uxo to visit the San Jose Caves, then a tour of the highlights of Valencia. Our bus left at 2:30 and headed for the Caves. After a few miles of flat countryside, it gradually became more hilly. Soon we passed by Sagunto, a very historic old Roman city, but not one on our itinerary. We had a good view of a large fortress atop a hill on our right. (The city was to our left.)

We arrived at the San Jose Caves about 3:30 and spent about an hour on what is said to be the longest navigable underground river in Europe. Each 12-passenger boat was propelled by a pole man. There were many capricious forms of rocks, supposedly molded by the water over thousands of years, but obviously helped along by a few well-placed sticks of dynamite. The stalactites and stalagmites were rather stunted compared to those we'd seen elsewhere. We passed through several interconnected caves with imaginative names like the Dog Kennel, the Bat Cave, and Diana's Lake. At one point we disembarked and walked on a looping path through the cave before reboarding our boat at a different location. After the boat ride, we had a short time to explore the grounds. The bus left for Valencia just before 5:00.
 

Jane in cave

Darrell

Jane & bottle-brush plant

Of course, we passed Sagunto again on the way back. This time I was at a window facing the city, and I could see ancient walls (Roman? Moorish?) running down from the castle ruins above.


Columbus Market

The bus got back to Valencia about 5:30, and we began the city tour. We entered the old city center from its east side and drove past the art nouveau Mercado Colon (Columbus Market) (1916). It's no longer a market, though, and is now filled with trendy bars and restaurants.

We got on Calle Colon near the Palace of Justice (late 18th century) and drove by the Plaza de Toros (Bull Ring) (1850). Just next to that was the art nouveau Central Train Station. Turning north, we passed the City Hall (18th century, but much remodeled), then the Post Office (1919) with an odd steel communications tower on top. Turning left past the Theatro Principal (Main Theater), we passed in front of the Palace of Justice, then looped back to the Plaza de la Reina (Queen Square). 


Plaza de Toros


City Hall


Post Office

Our bus then dropped us off for our visit to the Cathedral, built 1252-1482 on the site of a Muslim mosque. The structure is predominantly Gothic but with many later adaptations. The church has alabaster windows and boasts many treasures. These include two Goya paintings. Most notably, though, the church claims to have the Holy Grail, the cup Jesus used at the Last Supper. The Cathedral's octagonal bell tower, the Micalet, built 1381-1418, is the symbol of Valencia. 



Cathedral with the Micalet

Cathedral interior


Apostles' door of Cathedral

We were somewhat puzzled as we toured the interior of the Cathedral to see what appeared to be a full size replica of the Shroud of Turin. Not only was it on display, but it was completely exposed and unguarded on a table in the middle of an aisle where we could touch it. There was no explanation of what it was or why it was there. Nevertheless, it was very interesting to be able to examine it so closely.

The bus picked us up about 6:00 to take us to the Silk Market. On the way, we passed Santa Caterina Church, with its beautiful, ornate bell tower, and later the Central Market (1928), one of the largest covered markets in the world. 


Santa Caterina tower

Central Market

Silk Market portal


Carved stone stairs


Hall of Pillars
The Silk Market (La Lonja de la Seda), was a beautiful gothic sandstone (15th century). We entered into the Hall of Pillars, with spiraling pillars stretching up to the high elaborate ceiling. Historically, La Lonja was a center for trade and commerce relating to silk. We walked through the other ground floor rooms, then through a beautiful courtyard, and up the elaborate stone steps to see the rooms on the upper level. One of these was a large hall with an ornate beamed ceiling. The facade of the building was covered with ornamentation, including hundreds of symbolic and grotesque figures. 


Ornate beamed ceiling
Jane at Silk Market


 Serranos Towers
We boarded the bus again at 6:40 and headed for the Carmen Quarter in the north of the old walled city. This was one of the oldest areas but has recently been renovated. Nevertheless, it was often tight quarters for the bus as we wound around the area. We circled around the Torres de Serranos (15th century), once a gate to the city when it was a walled fortress. Then the bus crossed the Turia River (and came right back) so we could see that most of the river had been diverted and its bed turned into parkland.

Belle Arts Museum


We turned south on the road bordering the river. We could see the blue-domed Belle Arts museum on the other side. We passed the classic Puenta del Real (Royal Bridge)(16th century), immediately followed by the ultra modern Puente de la Exposicion (Exposition Bridge), designed by Santiago Calatrava (1995).


This was our introduction Valencia's City of Arts and Sciences, also designed by Calatrava. It was built in the dry riverbed. Started in July 1996, it is an impressive example of modern architecture. This "City" is made up of several distinct areas: the Queen Sofia Palace of Arts (opera house/performing arts center); the Hemispheric (Imax theater, planetarium and laser shows); the Umbracle (seemingly a lovely botanical garden, but really a parking garage); the Prince Felipe Science Museum; the Oceanographic (open-air oceanographic park); and the Agora (multi functional arena/convention center). It's really impossible to describe the imaginative architecture of these structures. 


Calatrava's Exposition Bridge
& the Agora

Palace of Arts, Hemispheric
& Science Museum (L to R)

The Science Museum up close
(aka The Dinosaur Skeleton)

After driving us back and forth through the City of Arts and Sciences, the bus took us back to ship. It was already 7:15, too late for the early seating for dinner, so we had to go to the "open seating"' at 8:00. We were put at a table for ten, and we had the poorest service of any meal on the cruise. It was 10:00 before we finished. In the meantime, the Noordam sailed at 8:30. We went to the 10:00 show, featuring the pianist/magician again.

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