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Prague (continued)

Monday, 30 September. We were up at 7:00 and went down to a generous buffet breakfast. The weather was sunny, but cold and windy. At 9:00 the bus took us along the Vltava River to the historic area. The old center of Prague consists of five sectors: Old Town (Stare Mesto), New Town (Nove Mesto), and Josefov (former Jewish ghetto) are on the east side of the river. On the west side are the Lesser Quarter (Mala Strana) and Castle Hill (Hradcany).

The bus dropped us off just south of the Charles Bridge. We were in Mala Strana on Kampa Island, a sliver of land separated from the mainland by a tiny artificial channel called the Devil's Stream (Certovka). This channel was dug to power water mills. Close to the drop off point, we saw the John Lennon Pub (no official connection to the Beatles).


Charles Bridge from south
Kampa Island with Castle above

Devil's Stream from Bridge
Kampa Island on left

John Lennon Pub
on Kampa Island

As we walked across the footbridge to the mainland, we passed close to the last remaining waterwheel. Attached to it is the figure of one of the water goblins that are said to have once occupied this area. Soon after, we passed the John Lennon Wall, covered with ever-changing graffiti.
 

Waterwheel on Devil's Stream

Restaurant across from waterwheel

Jane at John Lennon Wall
 

Poster showing flood barrier
Scattered throughout this area were posters depicting the big flood that hit Prague and much of Central Europe just a few months earlier (June 2013). Many of the posters showed Prague's portable flood barriers being erected or in place. The ground where we were walking had a series of deep sockets into which tall metal posts could be inserted. Then square metal tubes could be fitted between the posts, forming an effective water barrier, portable and reusable.
 

Our walk continued north to Mosteka (Bridge) Street and on to the west end of the Charles Bridge. This 30-foot wide stone bridge, opened in 1402, is one of Prague's foremost landmarks and tourist attractions. It connects Mala Strana (west) with Stare Mesto (east). The bridge railings are decorated with 30 large statues. Many artists and other vendors display their wares along the Bridge to take advantage of the heavy tourist traffic.


Classic car replicas
available for tours

Approaching Charles Bridge

Jane on Charles Bridge
near Mala Strana gate

Calliope on bridge

St. John, the most popular statue
(Jane rubbing bronze relief)

Bridge from Old Town side

Once across the Bridge in Stare Mesto, Jutta led our group to Old Town Square. After a brief orientation and instructions on how to get back to the Park Inn, she turned us loose near the Astronomical Clock at 11:30. We explored the nearby St. Nicholas church but didn't roam too far from the clock because we wanted to be there when it struck twelve.


Approaching Old Town Square.
Clock Tower (left);
Tyne Church (center)

Square from Tyne Church.
Clock Tower (left);

St. Nicholas (right)

Interior of St. Nicholas

We returned to the clock in time to get a good vantage point. Dating from 1410, this is the world's oldest astronomical clock still in operation. As the clock strikes the hour, two windows open and each of the twelve apostles passes by, turns, and looks out. Four figures on the outside of the clock move in turn.


Astronomical clock striking noon

Tyne Church across Old Town Square


Interior of Tyne Church



After the clock struck, we walked down a street off the Square and found an Italian restaurant where we had lunch. Then we roamed around the Square for a while before visiting the 14th-15th century Tyne Church (Church of Our Lady in front of Tyne) that dominates the Square without actually being on it. (There's a row of smaller buildings between the church and the Square.) We also explored some of the narrow streets leading from the Square.


Goth musicians; Jan Hus Memorial

Jane with little friend

Charles Bridge from the southeast

Then we decided to cross back over the Charles Bridge to visit the Church of Our Lady Victorious back in Mala Strana. Somehow we missed a turn and wound up at the Legii Bridge, one bridge too far south. It was a fortunate mistake, though, because it allowed us to approach the Charles Bridge from the southeast, providing us the most beautiful views of the bridge we have seen. 
 

Jane seeking out an ice cream
After crossing the Vltava River back to Mala Strana, we came upon a McDonald’' where Jane was able to get her customary afternoon ice cream fix, this time a dish of Magnum swirl. But unlike McDonald's we'd encountered elsewhere in Europe, neither the water nor the restrooms were free.

The Church of Our Lady Victorious was just around the corner. This church is home to the renown Infant of Prague, a 16th-century wax-coated wooden statue of the infant Jesus. Our church in Elkton is named Holy Infant after this icon and still has a copy of the statue on display. The Infant's elaborate vestment is changed to a different color periodically. We’d visited Our Lady Victorious on our 1998 trip to Prague, but it had changed noticeably in the intervening 15 years. Among other things, the free brochures with the history of the Church and the Infant were no longer available, even for a price.


Our Lady Victorious

Altar with Infant displayed

Infant of Prague (poster)

We had to walk back across the Charles Bridge to catch the tram to our hotel, our third crossing of the day. We got to the hotel at 5:30. We rested for a while, watching the Al Jazeera English channel for the first time. It seemed to be of very good quality and had better news than any other English channel we could find.

At 7:30 we went out to dinner at the Pod Vysehradem restaurant, about two blocks from our hotel. We went for the pig knuckle, their specialty, but they were out of it. We each ordered a different chicken dish, intending to share them. They both were terrible, though, and we couldn't finish either one. Even the potato pancakes Jane was looking forward to were inedible. At least they took credit cards. We got back to the hotel about 9:15 and packed up for tomorrow's departure from Prague.

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