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Monday, October 9: At 8:30 Lisa brought us a tray with tea and some delicious sesame seed cookies for breakfast. We went to the post office to buy stamps, but gave up when we saw the long line. We caught the 10:00 bus toward Perissa Beach. 

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Church bells  in Megalochori 
We got off about half way at Megalochori, advertised by the tourist office as "a traditional village." It was a quaint village, and we saw a few colorful inhabitants and one donkey as we walked the narrow streets. In a more modern version of the horse drawn produce wagons we remember from our early childhood days in Milwaukee, a small truck drove down the street, stopping every 40 yards or so and sounding the horn. The villagers would come out of their houses and buy their produce. We also saw an old church with a very interesting bell tower spanning the street.

We got on the next bus to Perissa and got there about 11:00. This was one of Santorini's famous black sand beaches. On the north end, it was cut off by the massive rock headland of Mesa Vouno; to the south, it stretched as far as we could see.
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Mesa Vuono from Perissa Beach
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Perissa from Mesa Vuono

There were several sunbathers, but hardly anyone in the water. We found out why when we tested the water. It was cold! Although we had brought our swimsuits, we just took off our shoes and walked along the edge of the water. For lunch we had pizza and beer at a shady table at a beach front restaurant. The restaurant was somewhat run down. In fact, the whole beach front had a seedy look.

 

 

We took the bus back to Fira, arriving about 2:30. We went back to our room, read our books about Crete, had some of the wine we had bought the night before, and generally relaxed. Jane was still recovering from her emotional trauma. That night we had dinner indoors at Ceasar's, an outstanding Italian restaurant. We had a Greek salad, dolmides, risotto, and cappuccino. They gave us a complimentary after-dinner drink that we concluded was ouzo and orange juice. Unlike most restaurants we had seen so far on our trip, this one was very crowded. There were even people at the outdoor tables by the time we left. 

Although the night was cool, there was little wind. It was really the first pleasant night we had in the islands. We walked around the central part of town, then along the walk overlooking the caldera. The best view of Fira clearly was from a projecting point right near our hotel. Fantastic! It was 9:30 when we got back to the hotel. We sat outside on the patio talking and enjoying the view until after 10:00. It was our latest night out so far on the trip. All we needed was some decent weather.

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