Saturday, October 9. The ship reached Avignon about 8:00 a.m. Because the silt of centuries has formed a long, narrow island in the Rhone, the river has two channels there. To get to its mooring, the ship had to sail south through Avignon in one channel, then north up the other channel. But as a special treat for the passengers, the Ravel continued past the mooring and approached the old Saint Benezet bridge, immortalized by the French song "Sur le Pont d'Avignon." The present bridge dates from the late 13th century and originally had 22 arches. Most of it was destroyed in a flood in 1660, and only four arches remain.

Our guides had arranged a deck party to celebrate our reaching the bridge. Passengers formed a ring and danced in a circle while singing "Sur le Pont d'Avignon."

Avignon through the morning mist

Saint Benezet Bridge

"Sur le Pont d'Avignon"

Then the ship turned back downstream and docked at about 8:40. There was a walking tour of the city at 9:00. We entered the Porte de l'Oulle into Place Crillon. We wound through the old streets and eventually came to a large theater and, in front of the theater, Place de l'Horloge, the main square.

Our group entering Avignon

Trompe d'oeil window

Theater

Finally we arrived at the Papal Palace (1335-1353). Residence of seven popes and two anti-popes over nearly a century (1309-1403), it is the largest Gothic palace in the world. Soon after Clement V, a Frenchman, was chosen as Pope, King Philip IV of France convinced him to move the papal residence to Avignon (not then a part of France). A succession of popes sympathetic to the French crown followed, and the papal residence remained at Avignon until 1376 when Pope Gregory XI restored the papacy to Rome.

Notre Dame Cathedral & the Papal Palace

Entering Palace Square

The old Papal Mint

When he died in 1378, there was a dispute over his succession. The Cardinals in Rome elected Urban VI to replace him, but another council in France elected Clement VII. For several decades, the competing colleges elected competing popes. The two popes elected in Avignon during this period are often referred to as "anti-popes."

In 1409 the Council of Pisa, held to resolve the dispute, elected a new pope but, when neither of the incumbents would resign, there were then three popes. Finally, in 1418 the Council of Constance settled the matter: the Roman and Pisan popes resigned, the Avignon-pope was deposed, and a new pope, Martin V, was elected.

We had a 40-minute tour of the interior of the massive Palace. It was sparsely furnished, and some of its original architectural features have been destroyed by fire over the years. Nevertheless, it was a very impressive tour.

Tower of Papal Palace

Jane in Papal Palace

Palace courtyard