Saturday, 20 September.
After an exceptionally fine buffet
breakfast at the Locanda, we were on our
way about 11:30. We intended to
drive west, straight to Trento, then take
the autostrada north before turning east
back into the Alps. However, the GPS had
a mind of its own. It took us north, I
think at Civezzano, on a tortuous drive
through the Alps on narrow twisting
roads. For about an hour we had no idea where we were.
We see bigger mountains ahead |
Jane & our Kia in no-man's-land |
Wherever we are, it's pretty |
The first landmark I can identify,
even now after scouring maps, is the village of Molina di Fiemme and its neighbor Castello di
Fiemme. Shortly after that, we came to
Cavalese, a large town for that area (pop. 4,000). Cavalese is probably most
noted for the terrible accident that
killed 20 people in 1998 when a U.S.
Marine Corps plane severed the cable of
the cable car from nearby Mount Cermis
to the town.
Molina di Fiemme |
Driving through Calavese |
Real mountains near Calavese |
The GPS urged us onward through places
we were surprised it even knew existed.
From Cavalese we headed up the narrow
Val di Fassa, flanked by steep rock
formations on both sides. We passed
through the villages of Moena, Soraga,
Vigo, Pozza, Mazzin, and Campitello, all
charming and picturesque, surrounded by
fantastic scenery. Not surprisinly, all
these places are popular ski resorts.
Covered bridge in Moena |
Mazzin |
Campitello |
We
eventually came to Canazei, a slightly
larger village (pop. 2,000). Here we
made an abrupt left turn off the
"highway" (a narrow 2 lane road) onto a
tiny road that went up the side of a
mountain to the Sella Pass (elev.
7,362 ft.). It was barely one lane wide and
nothing but switchbacks. It did
not look like two cars could pass. Fortunately we
did not have to find out because we did
not meet anyone coming down. We
stopped at the top to recuperate from
the ordeal. It was 1:00 and we had only been
driving about 90 minutes, but
it seemed like at least twice that.
At Canezei we left the "good" road |
At the top of Sella Pass |
Continuing through the Sella Pass |
We were now close to our next
destination, the mountain pass above
Selva di Val Gardena (aka Wolkenstein),
location of the ski lodge where our
family went skiing in December 1971 and
1972. It was called the Refugio Cir at
that time, but it has since been
enlarged and is called the Hotel Cir.
(Cir is the name of the spectacular rock
formation just behind the building.)
We drove directly to
the Hotel Cir, but unfortunately it was closed
until the ski season starts. There was a
new hotel in the pass, right across the
road from the Hotel Cir's long private
driveway, and a few smaller buildings
had been added nearby. Other than that,
the pass was pretty much as we
remembered it.
The Cir & the Hotel Cir |
Jane at the Hotel Cir |
The "highway" to Colfosco |
Then we
drove down the mountain to Colfosco, the
tiny village we skied to on Christmas
Day to attend Mass. We had skied right
up to the little Church, stood our
skies in the snow and went inside,
clomping down the aisle in our
snowboots. Those
are memories we will never forget. The
narrow, twisty road to Colfosco was
worse than we remembered, but then, we
had never driven it when we skied here.
We found the church without difficulty.
It had been enlarged, too, and the
village had grown considerably.
Colfosco (church lower center) |
Church in Colfosco |
Jane at church (addition noticeable) |
By then
it was approaching 2:00 and we still had
not had lunch. We drove back up to the
new hotel in the pass, but it was too
crowded.
We descended the pass
the same way we had come and drove into Selva,
several times larger than when we had
last seen it. By then it was after 2:00
and we still had not had lunch. Most
businesses were closed, but we found a tiny,
but nice, pizzeria in
the back of a little shopping area.
They even had Magnum ice cream bars for
dessert. We continued on through Ortisei
toward the autostrada. This route was
familiar, though much built up, because
it was the way we used to come when we drove
down from Germany to ski.
We got
on the autostrada at Chiuso. The GPS
told us to exit the autostrada at every
town we passed, but we ignored it. When
we got to the Brenner Pass, where we
would cross into Austria, traffic was
backed up for miles at the toll booth. It took at least
half an hour to get through. (Could the
GPS have known that?) The
autobahn took us through part of
Innsbruck, but far from the route we had
taken so often in years past.
The Edelweiss Hotel |
Just after Innsbruck we left the
autobahn, but the regular highways were very
good. The GPS still kept telling us to get off
this road at every town. We crossed
into Gemany at Scharnitz and arrived at
the Edelweiss Hotel in
Garmisch-Partenkirchen just after 6:00.
This was the site of our mini reunion
with 25 retired Judge Advocate officers
and old friends. The first gathering
of the group was at 6:30, so we had cut it pretty
close. After a short icebreaker, we
all had the BBQ buffet at the Edelweiss.
The food was plentiful but rather
mediocre.
We were staying a week
at the Edelweiss.
This beautiful new military hotel is
located at the
foot of the highest mountain in Germany,
the Zugspitze. Garmisch is where we
first skied with our boys. It is in Bavaria,
probably the most beautiful area of
Germany. The
little towns have beautiful
alpine chalets with window boxes of flowers.
The high craggy mountains provide a
magnificent backdrop.