19-bath:roman-baths

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ENGLAND: LONDON AND THE COTSWOLDS
12 - 27 May 2016

BATH: THE ROMAN BATHS

Thursday, May 19. We had breakfast at our hotel. It was very different from the Cotswold House in Chipping Campden. The breakfast room here was very long and narrow, but also crowded and noisy. It was obvious that many tours used the hotel. There was an extensive buffet, but you also could order almost anything at your table.

As we stepped outside at 9:00, Lee was just getting out of his van. He had driven two hours each way to spend the night at his home up north. He walked us to Bath Abbey Square. The entrance to the Roman Baths was located in the Square only a few steps from the front of the Abbey. Lee bought our tickets and waited outside as we went in at about 9:30.

Jane in square near hotel

Chimneys above street

Abbey & entrance to the Baths

The hot waters flowing from the ground here were used by peoples from ancient times, and they had often erected shrines. After the Romans occupied Britain, they built a temple to Minerva on the site (c.65 B.C.). Over the next three centuries, a bathing complex was gradually built up there, too, until it had the traditional caldarium (hot bath), tepidarium (warm bath), and frigidarium (cold bath) common to Roman baths. After the Romans left Britain early in the fifth century, the facilities decayed or were destroyed, and eventually were buried by silt.

But the water kept flowing and the spring was graced with new buildings periodically over the centuries. In the 18th century the underlying Roman buildings were rediscovered during an effort to improve the water flow. They have been excavated, restored and embellished over the ensuing years, mostly in the Victorian era.

As we entered, we found ourselves in the Victorian reception hall. It was pretty much of a madhouse inside, with little guidance to the mob of visitors. We were given audio guides, but we saw a sign that there was also a free guided tour. Unfortunately, the only information we could get about it was that it was "downstairs." As we went out the back door of the reception hall, we found ourselves on a rectangular terrace that formed the roof around a large atrium below. We followed the terrace around to steps leading down to the Great Bath, a large open air pool. (All the superstructure above the level of the column bases around the Great Bath is from the Victorian era or later.) Walking around the pool, we could see the top of the nearby Abbey towering over the Great Bath. We also found the entrance to the old Roman baths.

Reception hall

Terrace above Great Bath

Abbey seen above Great Bath

Model:4th c. baths & temple

Inside we found a large wooden model of the Roman Bath as it had been at its peak in the 4th century. Each of bath houses had a barrel-vault roof. The Temple of Minerva was separate but connected to the baths. Even with this layout in mind, it was difficult to maintain our bearings once we proceeded beyond this point.

As we left the model, we were suddenly swallowed up by such a tightly packed crowd that it was impossible to see anything in perspective. Soon we were walking through a twisting museum corridor lined with exhibits. But there was no sign of any tour.

We turned back after several minutes and eventually spotted an attendant who offered to lead us to the tour. We walked back the way we had just come, then down another crowded area until we finally found and joined the guided tour, already in progress. There were only two other people taking it, small wonder when it was so hard to find.

Changing room in East Baths

The tour was very interesting. I believe it took us into the East Baths where the tepidarium was located. In any event, the rooms we saw were not included in the mass tourist circuit. At least there were no tourists other than our small group. The guide led us through dark passageways and into huge rooms that the crowds never saw. The rooms were cold and dark, so dark we often could not make out very much. However, the guide continuously provided us with fascinating details about the people and the place. That alone made the tour worthwhile.

When the tour ended, we merged back into the huge mob trying to push its way through the exhibits. The exhibits were interesting, too, but the crowds precluded getting more than a glimpse here and there. We could never see a complete display. The audio guides were absolutely useless, designed for a solo stroll though an empty gallery by someone with six hours to kill. We spent just about two hours inside the baths.

Lead pipes carry hot water

The Great Drain
carried away used water

More of the Great Drain

Under the caldarium floor

Circular bath (frigidarium)

The Sacred Spring

Connected to the Roman Baths was a walkway leading through the ruins of the Temple Courtyard to the site where the Temple of Minerva had been. A display included the gilded copper head of the statue that stood in the Temple.

Ruins of Temple Courtyard
(Minerva at far end)

Head if Minerva statue

Pediment of Minerva's Temple

We exited the Roman Baths just after 11:30, The exit was some distance from the entrance, so we had to walk back to Bath Abbey Square where Lee was waiting for us.

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